Cooktops, heaters and gas lines installed, tested and certified. We establish what is already there first, because across this suburb that genuinely varies house by house.
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In a suburb built in one push, a gasfitter can arrive with a fair idea of what they will find. The supply, the pipework and the era are all much the same from house to house.
Gladesville is not like that. Land came out around a large institutional holding in stages over a very long period, so what was connected, when, and to what standard varies considerably from street to street.
That makes the existing installation the first thing to establish rather than an assumption to work from. Whether gas reaches the property at all, what the pipework can carry, and whether previous work was ever certified are all questions with different answers here.
So we check before quoting, and we pressure test what we are connecting to rather than only the appliance going on the end of it.
Out of the building, hands off every switch, meter off only if it is genuinely on your way past, and call us once you are outdoors.
Open the house up, get everybody outside, and touch nothing electrical on the way past. Take the call from outdoors.
Turn the gas off at the meter if you can reach it safely. If the meter is behind the smell, leave it alone.
A licensed gas fitter answers when you ring, and where the network's emergency crew is the right first call we will say so rather than book you in.
The suburb developed in stages over a very long period, so what was connected and when differs street by street and sometimes house by house.
Which means the presence of gas is a property question rather than a suburb question, and worth confirming before any conversation about appliances.
A meter on the wall with a service line from the street answers most of it in one look.
Existing supply and pipework may have been arranged for very different appliances than the ones there now, and altered by successive owners since.
That is not a reason to expect trouble. It is a reason to look at what is there before adding to it rather than after.
Most of the time everything is fine and the check takes minutes.
Adding an appliance is a calculation against total demand rather than a connection. The line has a capacity and so does the meter.
The input rating on the appliance plate is the number the calculation runs on, stated in megajoules per hour, and a photograph of it is enough to start.
Where the sums do not work, appliances starve each other, and a burner that drops off whenever somebody runs a shower is nearly always this.
A continuous flow hot water unit is a large draw, and adding one to an installation sized for a cooktop changes what the rest of the system sees.
This is the point at which the existing work gets looked at, which is frequently more valuable than the new appliance itself.
Older work here was done to the standard of its day. That standard was not wrong, it is simply not the current one.
Certifying a new appliance on a line losing pressure elsewhere achieves nothing, so the existing installation gets tested as part of connecting anything new to it.
That occasionally finds something, and when it does we will tell you before doing the work rather than after.
It is why a straightforward swap sometimes turns into a slightly longer conversation.
Every outdoor gas appliance has required clearances to combustible material, and a flue terminal has required distances from windows, doors and vents.
A shrub thickens, a hedge closes in, a screen goes up. Nobody decides to encroach on a clearance and it happens anyway over several seasons.
On the established gardens down towards the river it is the most common non-fault we find, and the fix is usually secateurs and ten minutes.
The pipe is sized for how far it runs and how much it has to carry. The line is tested to pressure. The appliance goes in to its own instructions with the clearances they specify. The flue discharges where the standard says.
By the time you are cooking on it, all of that is inside a wall or behind a cupboard.
So the paperwork is not administrative overhead. It is the only surviving record of work you cannot go back and look at.
Worth resolving rather than living with, particularly before a sale. A working appliance tells you nothing about the connection behind it.
Where nothing can be found, we can inspect and test the current installation and certify what exists. That is a different document from the original and a genuinely useful one.
Where the work turns out to be non-compliant, we will say so plainly and tell you what it would take to put right.
A Certificate of Compliance is legally required and issued by the licensed gasfitter who did the work. It is the only durable proof of who did it and to what standard.
Keep it with the property papers. It is what an insurer asks for after an incident and what a conveyancer asks for at sale, and it cannot be recreated afterwards.
In a suburb where the housing spans this many eras, your own paperwork is worth more than any assumption about the era.
The figure is settled before a tool comes out. These are indicative 2026 bands, and every one of them has the Certificate of Compliance built into it.
We put the installation under pressure and hand you the result in writing.
Hooked up, tested, certified, and the paperwork goes with you.
Priced on the length of the run and whatever it has to get past.
Fitted and certified, sized for what it will actually feed.
Legally required, and included on every gas job without being asked.
Whether gas reaches the property, what the pipework carries, and whether previous work was certified. All before quoting.
A pressure test on what we are connecting to, which on decades of additions is not a formality.
Installed and commissioned properly, sized for the appliance rather than for whatever was easiest.
Issued on the spot, and worth filing with the house papers.
Get out of the building, leave the switches where they are, and ring us from the footpath.
Call 1300 381 569Get everyone outside first. Do not touch any switch, do not use a phone indoors, and if the meter is safely on your way out, turn it off. Then ring from outside. This is the one situation where leaving and doing nothing else is exactly right.
Worth establishing rather than assuming, and it varies here. Gladesville developed in stages over a very long period, so what was connected and when is not consistent across the suburb. It is a quick thing to confirm and it changes the whole quote.
Usually yes. What matters is whether the existing supply and pipework can carry it, and whether there is a compliant position for the appliance and its flue. On older housing that is a check rather than an obstacle, and it is far better done before anything is ordered.
It is the paperwork a licensed gasfitter signs to say the work meets the standard, and the law requires it. Practically it is the one lasting proof the job was done properly, so it belongs with the house papers: insurers want it and so does a conveyancer at sale. Ours goes out on every gas job whether or not anyone asks.
It is worth resolving rather than wondering about. We can test the installation and tell you plainly what state it is in, which costs very little against what it settles, particularly before a sale.
No. Gas is licensed work in NSW with no exemption for a small job or a capable owner. Unlicensed work cannot be certified, voids a home insurance claim, and leaves nothing on record showing it was ever done safely.
A leak test on the installation is $150 to $300. A cooktop connected and certified is $250 to $500. A new gas point run and certified is $450 to $1,200 depending on the run and what it passes through. A heater bayonet is $300 to $600. The certificate is included in all of it.
Say what you want fitted and whether there is gas at the property already. Between those two answers we know whether this is a straight job or a supply question first.
The existing installation gets checked, the whole system tested, and the certificate issued without being chased.
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